From one Foodie to another - A list of Restaurants in Lubumbashi

When I say, my Husband and I are Foodies, it's an understatement. We love to experiment, and trying out exotic food is one of our favourite pastimes. The simple logic...How do we know if we don't try? We find it mundane to visit the same places repeatedly. That is exactly what we were doing here, for lack of adequate and authentic information. I decided to get cracking on this subject a couple of days ago. Not much is available on the net, I must admit. However, after some stubborn research, I have been able to compile some information. Please pardon me if you find incorrect addresses and phone numbers or incomplete information. I would love for readers to help me correct them, post suggestions and comments and provide me with more information if available. Have fun!!!

Restaurants we have dined at

Le Bonne Table Restaurant

The Grand Karavia

55, Route de Quartier, Golf

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : +243 815583058

Incredible property to start with, away from the main road, in the midst of landscaped gardens, with the lake on one side, is a treat. The restaurant serves French Mediteranean cuisine tempered with local influences. They boast of Indoor seating, as well as outdoor by the pool. The buffet is priced at USD50. Although passé, the Xmas spread was worth every penny and the New Year brunch on the 1st day of the year was everything a food lover could ask for. Their cold starters are simply out of the world.

Les Artistes
Route du Golf
Lubumbashi
Phone no. : +243 998538049

Les Artistes is an upscale restaurant  by the lovely Karavia lake. This beautiful Belgian restaurant is sophisticated and large, boasting of beautiful decor and lovely furniture. This place can be accessed via the gate to La Plage or by the road immediately after.  There is nothing about the place that is ordinary. They have a deck by the lake too. A lunch in my opinion might be a better option, to be able to soak in the scenary. One could take the pedalos or motor boats out on the lake as well. Might be a good idea to make reservations in advance, to avail seating by the lake. On the food front, Les Artistes is a gourmet's delight. Our 1st taste of wild boar.

Bush Camp

33, Avenue Kapwassa Kampenga,

Lubumbashi

Phone no : +243 814032161

Not within the city and not too far out, it screams ‘Game’ from all directions, it's as beautiful in the dark as it is in the day. They serve steaks, grills, salads and Congolese fare, all on the buffet. Sundays are special with various other meats like alligator and nntelope available, one pays on the weight of the meat. The buffet comes along with the meat selected. The décor is very African and resembles a hunter’s paradise. A nice place to lounge on a lazy Sunday afternoon. They also have some cottages, add a small animal  farm and a lovely garden. We loved the pork sausages and the antelope steak. Bush Camp is also responsible for my 1st taste of Congolese cuisine.

Cercle Hippique de Lubumbashi ( The Horse Club of Lubumbashi )
Lubumbashi

Beautifully green and scenic, this sprawing club is again situated in the Golf club area. Owned by the M Forrest group, it paints a very pretty picture. On one side are the stables and the other, a Show Jumping Course with a small gallery overlooking it. The lovely outdoor restaurant forms the 3rd angle of the triangle with a nice view of both. The cuisine is French-Congolaise. They also have a Congolaise buffet for $30 on Sundays. An afternoon over a pub meal with cool breeze blowing all the time, cannot be more relaxing.

Tony and Tony
Forrest Square
Lubumbashi

Run by a lovely Greek couple in a home setting, a beautiful garden outside, a few tables on the verandah, simple yet pretty inside with pristine white walls and crisp clean linen covering the asymmetrically arranged bamboo chairs and tables, surrounded by green plants and a few blue artefacts, completes the fabulous restaurant serving authentic Greek food with menu covering all my favourites from the Greek cuisine. I simply can't wait to go back there, not just for the food but to meet the lovely husband-wife again who make home cooked meals truly a treat to savour. 

Taverna Communate Hellenique ( The Greek Club  )

3000, Avenue Lubumba

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : +243 816070539

The restaurant serves a variety of starters and main courses, Greek and French, they also serve Chinese cuisine out of a separate kitchen. The Chinese fare from the earlier chef was one of the best I had ever had. The ever simple egg fried rice was unbelievably tasty. They also have a bar and a very large seating area apart from a childrens play area, a football pitch and a basketball court. This place may be now more popular for the space, rather than the food.

Cercle de la Communaute Belge de Lubumbashi ( The Belgian Club )

3, Avenue Kilela Balanda

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : +243 0815050728 / 0815050756

No fanfare, the club is all in one. They have a football pitch, tennis courts, a 2 lane bowling alley, even a dart board, a small bar and a dance floor, the restaurant serves continental food mostly from Italian and French/Belgian cuisines. They are well presented and well done. The french fries, something so simple are to die for, have never seen them so visually appealing before.

Ristorante Italiano La Casa

2900, Avenue Lubumba

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : +243 997025756/ 813331157

A lovely Italian place resembling a diner, green outside, never short of crowd and good food, it boasts of a casual atmosphere with a bit of formality looming over. Good food!!! Helps when am a sucker for Italian desserts. Their Menu is not very different from that of Planet Holly-bum.

Las Cara ( formerly Le Piccolo )
Avenue Sombesombe
Quartier Golf
Lubumbashi
Phone no. : +243 998502646

The restaurant is situated off the terminus in Quartier Golf, beyond Hotel Karavia. They serve authentic Italian Cuisine. They also host corporate parties and banquets. They undertake home delivery after prior agreement with companies and individuals. They also home deliver pizzas upto 9pm. They have a restaurant/bar as well as an outdoor seating area by the pizza oven. We went for pizzas and pastas the first time, the food tasted lovely, although the pizzas tasted a tad salty but was done perfectly, not too crispy and not soggy. They also boast of a lovely garden and ample parking space, peace and quiet too.

Planet Holly-Bum

975, Avenue Kilela Balanda

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : +243 997030256 / 990082013

Why is it called Holly-Bum??? Anyway, before I write about the food, I must tell you the restaurant is beautiful, love the artefacts, the furniture and the lighting. the décor is not expensive but done up very tastefully. They seat inside and outside. The food served is French/Belgian and Italian, worth the price and experience. This is a must try if you haven’t. The garden is beautiful as well but the approach is very unappealing. They must be credited for our 1st frog legs, sautéed in butter and garlic.

Les Tropiques
Avenue De La Justice
Lubumbashi

An outdoor restaurant, lots of trees and dimly lit, I was thrown back by the darkness that engulfed the restaurant. However, it's a completely different experience during the day, bustling with people with greenery and hutments all around. Food is lovely but the service is extremely slow.

Royal India Multi-Cuisine Restaurant ( called Swad now )

1446, Avenue Kilela Balanda

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : +243 993355330

The best Indian restaurant in Lubumbashi in my opinion, consistent always, there's plenty of space for parking, a neatly manicured lawn ushering guests in, earning them the top spot for parties. A place where parents can have a good time, leaving the wards on their own. Their Mutton Biriyani is finger licking good. They have renovated recently, giving away their bar area to Cafe Latte Lounge, converting their space inside for banquets and corporate parties and the space overlooking the garden has been retained for casual dining. The menu is the same.

Hotel Lubumbashi

Avenue du 30 Juin at Avenue Djamena

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : +243 819777111

A nice looking hotel, I am not sure how good it is as a hotel, I love their courtyard. They have a multicuisine restaurant, which serves Indian and Belgian/French cuisine. Among the better Indian restaurants, there is not much on the menu, they can throw a nice 3 course dinner though. Their kulfi is awesome. Men, listen up, their salon can do good to your hair while you wait for dinner to be served. Must say this lady goes there once in a while too.

Maharaja Indian Restaurant

Avenue Lomani

Lubumbashi

A dhabba-ish atmosphere inside, they also serve chinese, but it is better to stick to their Indian fare. They also serve chats and sweets. They do outdoor catering and also undertake orders for sweets and paneer. They should concentrate on the toilet facilities, they are losing out on in-house parties. Their hot Jalebies are yummy.

Belle Maison
Off Trente Juin
Lubumbashi

A spacious Chinese restaurant off Trente Juin, this place definitely attracts a lot of crowd even during weekdays, albeit most of them are Chinese. The food is great and is kept piping hot on the table from the mini stove provided. The sore point however is the 'smokey' atmosphere and the noise from the boisterous crowd. Absolutely the right place for an awesome chinese meal and absolutely the wrong place for a quiet meal.

La Perla de Oriente

De La Justice Road

Lubumbashi

A Chinese restaurant we go to, when are absolutely hungry and want to have junk Chinese food. They serve a buffet at USD18 per person on Saturdays, hot food and availability is not guaranteed. It could get very crowded and smokey too. A perfect place for the hungry. On other days, there's plenty of space, there is a large variety to choose from the menu card, the portions are large and it's simply good Chinese food.

Golden Sun
Avenue Mama Yema
Near the Hindu Temple
Lubumbashi

Our friends and us had decided on Chinese dinner at the Greek club. Sadly, the kitchen was closed. We were craving Chinese, so decided to try out this place. They have a casino on one side and a restaurant on the other, with a nice garden seperating the two. The owner tell us he's been here for 4 years, has travelled to Lubumbashi after putting a stamp on Sri Lanka and South Africa. He admits he makes more money from the casino. The food I must say was lovely, simple, yet tasty and authentic. So, if you want to play Black Jack or American Roulette and celebrate your money with Chinese food, this is the place to be.

Luana

Avenue Lubumba

Lubumbashi

Lebanese Cuisine is one of my favourites, it’s also known to be one of the healthiest, borrowing influences from the Mediteranean cuisine. This place, albeit owned by a Lebanese group, only carries influences from the Lebanese cuisine. They specialise in comfort food or fast food, namely shawarmas, pizzas, burgers, KFC style chicken ( pales in comparison ), sandwiches, eggs, rice and gravy Chinese style and fries. I love their grilled sandwiches, especially the one with the labneh filling. Labneh is hung curd mixed with olive oil and a dash of salt, is healthy and is one of my favourite spreads. These days, sadly, they don’t stock them, it is available at the Nazem grocery store on Mondays.


Cafe Lattelicious
Golf de Lubumbashi
Lubumbashi
Phone no : +243 998126503

Owned by the Governor's family and nestled in a corner among their various properties, diagonally opposite the Horse club in the Golf club area, this cafe/bar is a fantastic place to relax over a nice cuppa coffee or a drink and good conversation. They serve breakfast, sandwiches, pizzas, pastas, burgers, other short eats and dessets, apart from coffee and alcohol. They also offer home delivery and have a very exhaustive menu. They levy USD 5 for the same. They also have a gym and spa attached but the price tag is way over a regular budget. We are pretty sure we are going to be regulars. Did I mention the service is very good???

Cafe Latte Longe
No 1446, Avenue Kilela Balanda ( same compound as Swad )
Lubumbashi

This cafe/bar shares management with Cafe Lattelicious, the menu is the same barring a few additions. The music is pretty loud for dinner time. The place serves as a dance lounge post midnight. We happened to dine there and found the place too cramped for comfort, add heavy rains and the 'outsiders' turned to cover inside. Would certainly prefer Cafe Lattelicious for just a meal or snack but if  one's priority is to enjoy music and dance, should give Latte Lounge a try 'after dark'.

La Plage
Lubumbashi

La Plage is a lovely property by the Lake, meaning 'The beach' in French, it has a restaurant/bar, a cafe ( Cafe du Lac ), bakery ( Vanille & Chocolat ), a supermarket ( Hyper Psaro ) and a huge sand pitch by the Lake, with provisions to play football, volleyball or just chill around. They also have pedalos and motor boats if one is ready for an adventure on the lake. On the side is an entrance to their swimming pool and an area to host parties. Les Artistes can be accessed via La Plage too. This place is situated right after the the waterfall on the Golf course road. The place is hip and happening.

Cafe du Lac
Lubumbashi

Cafe du Lac is a lovely cafe which doubles as a Cafe and a Bar. They have two outlets, one in Karavia and the other in La Plage. The one in La Plage is open on one side to the sand pitch with a view of Le Artists just beyond that and the lake. From what we ate, food was pretty average but who is going there for food??? It's a wonderful place to just lounge and meet with friends.

Vanille & Chocolat
La Plage
Lubumbashi

A small place selling different kinds of breads, sweets, desserts, particularly chocolates, there is just enough space to pay and collect one's order, simply because it's extremely popular. Situated right next to Cafe du Lac.

La Brioche

75, Laurent Kabila Road

Lubumbashi

Phone no : +243 97021780

This one sells all kinds of baked produce, also attached is a cafe, which serves as a good hang out over a cuppa joe. They also serve croissants, cookies, sandwiches, snacks, cakes and chocolate desserts. Our Birthday cakes come from La Brioche.

Nazem Boulangerie

Avenue Lubumba

Station des Champions

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : +243 0819882222

A place for all kinds of breads except brown, am not sure if there is another place here, which sells the local version of the kubooz or pita bread, called chapatte locally. I cannot however figure out why these bakeries don't sell brown bread.

Restaurants, which got to see us, their culinary skills waiting to be tested

Cercle Hippique le Centaure  ( The Horse Club )

Lubumbashi

A small place off the Golf club road with neat looking stables and a Show Jumping Course with a restaurant/bar sandwiched in-between. Nicely located with a lovely view on both sides, the menu is Continental, but one gets slightly put off by the smell from the stables. It feels nice to just stand there and bird watch, adds a very romantic touch.

Hotel La Rose

Lubumbashi

Some say it’s a good place to stay, am a Resident here, so that's not going to interest me. They also have a small swimming pool open to the public. Have been to their restaurant just to take a look, the menu is Continental, yet to try. I would prefer Holly-Bum and restaurant Italiano to La Rose, simply for the visual effects.

Le Riviera

Lubumbashi

This beautiful outdoor restaurant is located by the lake. One of the 1st places we visited in Lubumbashi, one could just get carried away by the pristine lake that is in view. There are huts which one could take cover under or, one could just take a table by the lake. Unfortunately we landed there after coffee elsewhere, and hence did only a photo shoot. They might want to spruce up the place a bit.

Park Hotel

50, Avenue Munongo

Lubumbashi

A small Restaurant, lovely décor and a neat Menu card.

Restaurants, we have heard and read about, waiting to be visited

Hotel Cosmopolite

15, Avenue Lomami

Lubumbashi

Hear, it’s one of the best hotels here, I haven’t heard about their restaurant but am looking forward to visiting soon.

Hotel Sabrina
Off Trente Juin
Lubumbashi

A Chinese joint on the 1st floor, on one of the main roads off Trente Juin, this place carries good reviews, yet to visit though. Parking could pose a problem. It is situated diagonally opposite Belle Maison.

Alilac Café

50, Avenue Bundi

Lubumbashi

Sports a very nice open terrace, serves food and drinks at reasonable prices.

Restaurants, we would love more information about

Chez Robert
Villa Munua
1722 Quartier Golf
Lubumbashi
Phone no: +243 819331241

Heard a while ago, look forward to visiting, it's on my wish list. This place is situated in one of the finest Guest houses here, Chef Robert from Liege, is the man behind the place. One could choose to enjoy dinner outside, facing the Garden and Swimming Pool.

Oxy Lac

Kalubwe

5, Avenue Chemin Public

Lubumbashi
Phone no. : +243 997012775

Lakeside, overlooking Hotel Karavia. meals are served in huts. grilled tilapia is a speciality. We had a look at the place one night, couldn't see much but the place cried for crowd, maintenance and information.

The Brussels

Hotel Palace Beau Site

500, Avenue Lomami

Lubumbashi

Serves French cuisine with a Mediterranean accent.

Taj Tandoori

Avenue Lubumba

Lubumbashi

An Indian place on Avenue Lubumba, am not sure why we haven’t tried it as yet or why people don’t talk about it very often. Heard from a contact that food and service are below standard.

Le Perroquet

588, Avenue Kasavubu

Lubumbashi
Phone no. : +243 997022930

Serves local fare.

Joliety

Avenue Kapenda

Lubumbashi
Phone no. : +243 997020664

Serves quality local cuisine. The walls are adorned with aphorisms.

La Calebasse

78, Avenue Sendwe

Lubumbashi
Phone no. : +243 997026625

Specialises in Congolaise cuisine, with a variety of meat and vegetarian dishes

Le Petit Brussels

1045, Avenue Kabalo

Lubumbashi

Serves Congolaise food

Le Village

Avenue 30 Juin

Lubumbashi

Run by a Family, Le Village serves local Congolaise cuisine inside huts.

La Grignotte

Laurent Kabila Road

Lubumbashi

Located near La Brioche, known for their sausages and meatballs.

Super Ebene

294, Avenue Maniema

Lubumbashi

Phone no. : + 243 995922222

New Relax – Le Bamboo Restaurant/Bar

Quartier Golf
Lubumbashi
Phone no. : +243 996023210

Bon Appétit!!!

The good, bad and the ugly...Lubumbashi, am part of you now!!!

No, I don’t feel negative today, in fact I feel very positive, hence this piece. Lubumbashi may pose a lot of challenges, but life here has been extremely rewarding, happy and content. A nice collage of everything, what we have learnt so far is to go with the flow. Lubumbashi, bring in the good, bad and the ugly, am part of you now.

The decision to set shop at Lubumbashi was BIG, we had no idea what was in store. I am normally consulted a great deal on every decision we take. I didn’t take much part in this one. It was career related and as always I took it for granted P would take the right one, his future seemed more important at the moment. I knew mine would be taken care off automatically. I also knew, I could always say ‘No’, I knew we could always go back if we were not happy, I knew my happiness was always taken into account. We arrived here without expectations. That does not mean we didn’t have any. We did look forward to a comfortable life and one without too many risks. The 1st few months were not easy, especially for someone who had lived her life on her terms, with everything laid on a platter. Comfort and ease of movement was of utmost importance and I got that without lifting a finger, back home. Credit to the husband! Here, I realised I had to be more dependent than I was before and getting to learn the ropes was not easy.

To start with, I had to depend on P’s car which was not always at my disposal. Once I got a feel of the stores here, I thought life would become easy. Dealing with arithmetic has always posed a problem, I still use my stubby fingers like a kinder garden student and converting dollars from Congolese Franc and vice-versa was painful. I shamefully admit, I pretend am counting, while I see white, I also hope the cashier is good at his or her arithmetic. Absurd but true! These are no lifestyle stores or malls. Oh, how I missed my shopping, which included lunch, coffee and aimless walking on my own. In time that has been forgotten. Lucky P!

I never had a housekeeper back home because I was picky about spots, I was sure I would always find some after she left. I was also happy to clean them on my own and at my pace. I had pride and joy imprinted on ‘housework’. The company P works for here provides a housekeeper, it feels good to have someone take charge of one's housework, but am still not very comfortable with it. Am not sure I can take care of it on my own either, the house presents its own challenges, being old and wrinkly. I had to find ways of spending time during those hours as well. Not easy, the TV is always on but that does not mean am watching anything. Sometimes I do not know what is going on. The noise it produces is engaging and this ‘large-ish’ place does not feel eerie anymore. Then comes another past-time, browsing.

How do I go about doing it? I had no net connection, it took about 2 months to get fixed. I did think I was addicted to Facebook, but no, I wanted my net connection for my browsing. What do I browse??? recipes, current affairs, Wikipedia and a variety of websites that are of interest to me. Must tell you, we do not have a daily newspaper here and the cable provider had not given us access to Indian news until August. We do get NDTV now. I realised it was not easy to forego the early morning newspaper. So no Indian news on TV, no internet and no newspaper…I went by what P told me on a daily basis from work and what friends and relatives relayed from home.

The social life has shifted gears from activity packed weekends, back home, to just looking forward to having my husband at home during the period. Am enjoying it, we get out when we feel like it, no pressure, must confess it is still every weekend. We do not have the 'Saturday' we used to get back home. I understand this is a factory atmosphere and the other a corporate world. It’s a small world, a lawyers world, what one says and does could be used against them, one of the earliest things we were warned about. Definitely a difficult proposition for someone who is yet to learn what keeping her trap shut means. There are a lot of things one has to reluctantly go through, obligation takes precedence over happy choices.

We suffer the lack of a good beauty parlour. Lack of privacy in there is another problem. I have lost my sense of shame now. I had decided to colour my hair a while ago, had asked for brown streaks, what I got in return was humour at its best. A mop of blonde hair and uncontrollable laughter at home, courtesy the husband. I could not step out of the house and had to just go for the safe black after two days. I depend on P’s barber for a haircut in-between my visits to India.  A couple of weeks ago, with my regular beautician vacationing in India I decided to try a new nicer looking place. What I ended up with was a set of eyebrows which resembled a chain of the letter Z. Well, have also got them done in a home run grocery store once.

Yesterday, for the 1st time since our arrival, there was some violence reported near the airport, in which one person was killed and one wounded. It is still not clear if they were militants or men from the military. Some even reckon, it was an organised attack to postpone elections, which is scheduled to take place later this year. Panic did grip the city yesterday, for some reason it didn't scare us enough to take confinement. We managed to have a lovely dinner at a restaurant nearby. Some might call it foolish, we were together on the plan though. Life is back to normal today. We would like to believe it was a stray incident.

Despite all the challenges, our life in Lubumbashi after 9 months has been happy and secure, a great ride so far. Love the heart and soul the city embraces, love the warmth of the people, their happiness is infectious despite being pitiably poor. Love what is available at the grocery stores, am able to indulge in my passion…cooking and baking. The expatriate population mainly from Europe, China and South Africa have made sure these stores are stocked with goods that are not readily available in Indian stores back home. The restaurants, expensive they may be, are inviting  and we love the variety that is on offer for 'foodoholics' like us. The cost of living is high. At the risk of sounding pompous, we are paid to incur that. We came here to work and enjoy life. We have found a nice balance and we shall live upto it till the time is up. We are on full throttle. Thank heavens, P and I are on the same page here. Regret not in sight, Excitement galore!

The journey is definitely more important than the destination!

My Santa Claus!!!

The last time I saw him, he was waving us goodbye. We were on a train and him, at the platform of the Thakazhy railway station. I saw him one more time, but this time to bid him adieu forever. I had never imagined he would be the first of the four to go. On the outside he seemed healthy and we took that for granted. The mysteries life throws upon us! I didn't think I would feel that devastated either, maybe I was more attached to him than I ever knew. My Grandfather... 

I can vividly picture myself leaning against the gate of his Bangalore home, waiting for him to return from work. He walked home with his constant companion, his tenant upstairs, after alighting from the HAL bus. I had a companion as well, his dog, Caesar, a German Shepard. Caesar was taller than I was at that time. How old was I, about a year and a half. I have no idea how I remember these events but these images are crystal clear. My Grandmother dressed me like I were her barbie doll, whether I looked the part or not. The moment my eyes caught the sight of the slim bald man with a dimpled smile, in white full sleeved shirt and black trousers, making a left turn at the junction, my face lit up. Bet Caesar was as excited.

I remember my last trip to Thakazhy. P and I were on our first visit  to my Grandparents' after our wedding. While I was busy showing P around, my Grandparents were busy making an effort to make P feel comfortable. A place so alien to P, a place completely different from what he had ever seen or even imagined. People he hardly knew. I am sure, he felt comfortable with them. Credit to him as well, a specialist on social skills. For some reason he never took to the place. However, am sure he knows my Grandfather as much as I do, with the number of anecdotes I throw for good measure. 

An active person that my Grandfather was, he loved to socialise and was popular among his friends. We made frequent trips together to the commercial area of Coxtown to buy Caesar bones to chew on. We visited a temple somewhere there, do not know its name or the idol that graced it. The temple was on an elevation with wide steps running across its breath. My Grandfather insisted I once 'pooped' on his arm on our way to the temple. Well, I cannot vouch for it but I would love to believe I did not.

My brother and I were not particularly attached to Thakazhy but my Grandfather made sure he entertained us thoroughly. We were not particularly fond of the outdoors, with people throwing us stares for being 'cityish'. In all honesty we were only 'townish', coming from the BHEL Township, off Trichy. I remember wishing my mother would dress me a little more conservatively so those stares wouldn't happen. Today am sure it's the other way round. I cannot forget the trips to the temple, followed by a trip to my Great granduncle's. The temple premises was enormous and wore a serene atmosphere, a big pond on the way to the temple was a major attraction. The inner sanctum made no sense to me, considering how 'un-religious' I was. I still am but I was enthralled by the oil stained 'diyas' in full glow and the sound of bells. There was a small room by the side of the temple we used to visit. My Grandfather used to give them a coupon and in return they gave him a pot filled with 'prasadam'. Never missed making offerings at the temple for all our birthdays, his children, their husbands, grandchildren. He never missed wishing us via inland letters too.

If my memory serves right they moved from Bangalore to Thakazhy in 1978 or thereabouts. It was an arduous task to get there, more water bodies than roads. I remember our first trip by our black Fiat. We had driven all the way from Trichy to Cochin to Trivandrum to Thakazhy. It takes about an hour and a half from Cochin. Am sure those days it took more. It was quite an adventure I remember. We had to park our car at an acquaintance's house and walk to their home, alternating between coconut tree bridges and 'kucha' roads. We complained about a lot of things, electricity failing frequently, especially after dark, the eerie house, the bathroom that was built outside. We loved running around the house, going over to the other side of the property separated by a small water body flowing from the Pamba canal right in front of the house. My Great Grandfather owned three boats I was told and the water body inside the house explained that. I must mention the coconut tree bridge over the water body. We made innumerable trips on them, never fearing a fall into it. We had heard once or twice from my Grandfather that he had taken the plunge. We were supervised by my Grandfather through the window of his quiet room, on the side. He sat on an easy chair with his legs up and dreamt away, his face not forgetting to smile.

By the time my brother and I had grown up, my Grandfather had realised we were not going to be tricked to do the outdoors. He knew we detested the attention we got from people. We were not forced to do things we didn't want to. Am sure my Grandmother didn't take kindly to that but he knew better. We got talking about movie stars, sportsmen and politicians, a lot of reference to Dharmendra, Hema Malini and Jimmy Connors. I remember being so thrilled to talk to him about these 'Movers and Shakers' and filling him in with the missing details. Must not forget we talked about my crushes and misses as well, made me think our lives were not all that different, despite being two generations apart.

We most often took a bus from Trivandrum, alighting at Ambalapuzha around lunch time. We were famished from the four hour journey from Trivandrum, having left early in the morning. My Grandfather would wait patiently at Ambalapuzha next to his white Morris Minor, holding a king size umbrella over his head and gold rimmed green Rayban sunglasses covering his eyes. A cigerette that got stubbed when he sighted the bus. He never went out without those 'props'. He looked excited to see us, never demonstrative but his teeth covered dimpled smile was always on display. We used to dread the Morris Minor, moved so slowly and made unceremonious noises. Not many owned cars there and this one was called 'aama' car by the kids. They ran alongside, causing my brother and I a lot of embarrassment. My mother found it funny, much to our annoyance. He didn't care what the others thought of his car, he loved it like his own child. He spent a lot of money maintaining it on his own, causing my Grandmother a lot of irritation. It was fun to see them bickering over this one.

Throughout our growing up years we did the same things when we visited our Grandparents. One of the first things we did on entering the house was to meet the new calf, every year there was one. I loved perching over his shoulder and playing with his sparse hair, while he sat on his favourite chair. He played hide and seek with us. We chided him for hiding in the same place every time, the toilet. He preferred to call it 'London'. We didn't ever consider concessions for him and he didn't ask for any. The walk to the paddy fields was fascinating. My brother and I ran around, fell off the narrow path leading to the fields a couple of times but that never slowed us down. The trip always ended with a visit to an old couple's, I do not know how they were related to us. Then there were trips to the small grocery stores, the mill, which pounded rice and spices, a stray visit to Alleppey and Ambalapuzha. My brother liked to call the latter Ambalappey. Every year my Grandfather would add to his collection of photo frames on the ornate wooden wall, family, extended family, infants, all of us occupied some space there, none from his side of the family. A couple of them were made when we were around, so a trip to the studio was meshed in too. Why didn't we ever think of taking a picture with him?

Before we landed at Areepuram, as the home was called, the pantry was stocked up. Milk powder immediately comes to mind, specially for yours truly. How much I loved it, still do and eat it on the sly. So there goes, my Grandparents are to be blamed for my obesity ( brings a smile ), Kerala laddus too, loved them. There were homemade goodies as well, lots of mangoes, jackfruit, pineapples and papayas in addition to the local produce and some bought from Alleppey. He did his best to make us feel at home. Must admit we were not grateful always. I do remember arguing with him over silly reasons. There was a time when I stayed there on my own in 1983, gave him a lot of trouble, stubborn and spoilt that I was. I refused to have my breakfast once, he said he would have his only if I had mine. I didn't and he left home to do his errands. He came back home midway after having fainted somewhere. How I had wished, I hadn't been so mean to him that day.

It will be 13 years on January 9th, since his passing away but memories still remain fresh, I don’t miss an opportunity to sing his praises now. One does not have to show excesses, money or power to love or be loved. One need not be artificial about it either. That was how he won me over. Not many people credit him for moving lock, stock and barrel from Bangalore to Thakazhy. He did it selflessly, expecting nothing in return. He definitely holds the record for being my favourite Grandparent, wonder if he ever knew.

In memory of my Grandfather...1920-1998

Lubumbashi...my home today

Cathedrale Saints Pierre et Lubumbashi

The Belgians founded the city of Elisabethville in Katanga Province in 1910, named in honour of their new Queen, Elisabeth. The city prospered with the development of a regional copper mining industry. Mobutu Sese Seko renamed Elisabethville 'Lubumbashi'.



The Parliament House

Lubumbashi is the second largest city in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, second only to it's Capital Kinshasa, is the hub of the South Eastern part of the country. The copper-mining city serves as the capital of the relatively prosperous Haut-Katanga Province, lying near the Zambian border. Population averages around 1.2 million. Lubumbashi lies around 1,000 metres above sea level.

 

In April 2010, we arrive, P and I, full of hope, excitement, optimism, not to ignore the anxiety and the resistance to change, when I say we, I actually mean 'I'. P does not display much emotion when it comes to happiness or sadness, always ready for the ride, good or bad, so I can't read the optimism or the pessimism, or the anxiety or hope. In my case, there are days when one rules over the other, days when all feelings mingle freely and days when I draw a blank. Eight months later we are still here, full of excitement, hope and optimism, no anxiety, no resistance to change, and here the 'we' is truly 'we'.



Lubumbashi Airport

We land at Lubumbashi airport and my brain freezes, is that an airport, or a military air base??? I am told it was a military air base before the grand conversion. More helicopters than aeroplanes at the parking bay. There are commoners jay walking around the tarmac. Before I can absorb the scene, we enter a dirty looking building with fellow passengers. What we see is the immigration area, except, there are more agents than passengers thronging the place. Well, there is a hint of exaggeration here, but you know what I mean. Our passports and yellow cards are collected from us by the company agent while we wait in the corner, like convicts waiting to be called. It is then that we find that some fellow employees have arrived with us in the same plane. Some relief that!!! Once the immigration formalities are done with, we are ushered into another room, yes, a room, by Swahili speaking gentlemen at the door, not forgetting to ask us a few questions in Swahili and all of us turn to our agent, who gives them crisp answers. We see a dilapidated conveyer belt and more people, by people I don't mean passengers. We have to drag our suitcases from the conveyer belt, to stand in a long queue. We soon learn our suitcases are going to be checked by the Customs, manually, we could lose things if they decide to have them. Oops!!! Think they are completely baffled by the amount of luggage we are carrying, thanks to me, they just let us go.  We get into a waiting pick up truck and drive home, a pick up truck growing mould on its floor, more than a few of us sitting almost one over the other, packed with suitcases at the back and some using us for support. Shocking!!! My first impression of the City, its dusty and old, with a colonial air looming large. Can't wait to see my new place. 

Once we are home, we are welcomed by a security guard and our maid in a night gown, guess, she was spring cleaning the house, a complete departure after she changes into her 'going home' clothes. We unload our luggage and enter an old building, completely discoloured from the lack of paint and rain stains . What strikes us when we are in, is a complete lack of imagination displayed. Plastic flowers adorn the walls, the corners, the centre table, the dining table and even the ceiling, red, yellow, blue, green, orange, pink...a collage of colours and torn 'gold' curtains to boot. I check out the house and realise am disoriented, am  going round and round. We go up and the same...the curtains are better, the bed linen...can't be worse, they look used. They definitely need a lady in the establishment department. OMG!!! No water in the only bathroom we have. World over we know it's common place to have a single big bath, but am not used to it. The security guard doesn't seem to understand what 'water' means, I can't even wait to ask again. I manage to show him a bucket with little water in it and he understands. He switches on the motor and there...plenty of water. So, in Lubumbashi we need to switch on the motor if we need water, or is it just our place??? We come down, go into the kitchen, we find an unclean refrigerator, old broken cabinets, a cooking range, an old meatsafe without knobs, everything about the kitchen is old, big though, with a large storeroom and another one, small, under the stairs with a lock and key, fascinating to my head. I decide crying is the best option and P decides I should make a decision if I want to go back to Chennai. I feel so sorry for him. We have our lunch, the company has ordered food for us for which we are asked for payment later and we spend the rest of the afternoon indulging in pessimism. Again, 'we' means 'I'. P is more optimistic, as always, he contacts one of his new colleagues, also his former colleague for answers.



Elephant Monument for the Central Bank

Things start to brighten up the next day, a Sunday, we have the whole day to think about what we want to do, it dawns on me, would be silly to go back home because we don't like what we see in the house, we could always ask to be moved. It would be silly to remain pessimistic. We have ready-to-eat food bought the previous day from an Indian store in the CBD. P is pleasantly surprised to see it's not a store, it's a supermarket. Overall Sunday is a very quiet day, spend time sleeping most of time, as Saturday is spent worrying :-)

Bright start to Monday, I get busy in the kitchen, re-arranging furniture and making the house look more inviting. Our contact here take us to this Belgian supermarket and I almost feel like shop lifting. What a lovely place!!! Suddenly life in Lubumbashi is starting to look sunny. We decide to make things happen, it's upto us now. We immediately embark on a shopping spree, buy crockery, cutlery, bed linen, artefacts for the walls to replace all the flowers hanging like mistletoes, more groceries and food to go in the refrigerator. The house starts to look cozier day by day. We decide to get the house painted, the curtains changed, jewellery made out of the 'gold' curtains. They all take time, six months infact, that is not too long am told. We start taking an interest in gardening. Must admit I have no knowledge of gardening, still don't, not even the basics, seems to be something which my brain can't pick up. Today the house is a home, some corrections here and there still need to be made, otherwise it has become a very warm and welcoming place for both of us. The house is built on a lovely plan, small changes to the interiors make such a noticeable difference, can't bear to think, I wanted out of here.



Lubumbashi Railway Station

Lubumbashi is a very well planned city, trees lining the broad streets, old, large houses, most of them lacking paint behind tall plain metal gates, lovely flowers peeking over high compound walls, fantastic restaurants, old commercial buildings in the Central Business District, yellow jersey wearing policemen and women, red taxis, a few in number, 'Dubai's' ( large vans ) used as the public transport with drivers who manuevre like they are under the influence, beautiful churches adorning junctions, simple, picturesque and spaced out picnic spots, supermarkets of different kinds, Belgian, Italian, Indian, Local, all of them specialising in their signature products, small stores managed from homes. Should I call Lubumbashi a city, a town or a Colony??? Well, I think it strikes a very fine balance between all of them, should be called 'Ci-to-ny':-)



Golf Links

We know people make a place. The locals are such incredibly happy people, despite being exceedingly poor. DRC is the poorest Country in the world but the only people I see begging are the handicapped. Definitely not as many as in India. The poor are never seen in tattered clothes, are laidback, enjoy life as if it's their last day on Earth, they can instantly sparkle a dull boring day. On the other end of the spectrum, there are the extremely rich, Government servants who live lavishly on bribes, unlike in India they don't hide it. They are a protected lot, then there are traders and those who have inherited 'trunks' and comfortably live on them. On a lighter note, the term bribe is called 'motivation' money. When a tip is requested, they call it 'transport' money. It is not worth denying the poor their 'transport' money, that small sum of money determines the difference between hardworking and 'hardly working'. Not many jobs are available for the population that is still growing at an alarming rate. They believe children are a gift of God and a household with ten children is not rare. The mortality rate is so high, death is looked at very philosophically. Once the funeral is over, life is back to normal. It is also common to take in extended family as a result of death of the bread winner. Hence, a single income takes care of more than a dozen people. A very sad state indeed!!!

On the social scene, we have made a few friends, some are here to stay, some are not. We are here to grow, meet new people, make happy memories. We need to respect the space we live in and grant others theirs. A small world that Lubumbashi is, misunderstandings are commonplace.  It is imperative not to dwell on them and move on.  It is important not to compare life here with that back home. Take in the good and ignore the bad!!! There are no movie theatres and no fancy shopping malls, must admit one learns to live without these luxuries. We came here with absolutely no expectations, even if we have to go back to Chennai today, I would say we have gained a lot.  

An Ode to Lubumbashi!!!

Diwali at Lubumbashi

I remember, Diwali was huge when we lived in the BHELTownship at Trichy, we looked forward to the next one even before the ongoing festival saw the last of its fireworks. It was all about firecrackers, sweets and new clothes. My brother and I were even branded ‘Pandis’ by our ‘Mallu’ Cousins for being too ‘Tamil’ and for not making an effort to be ‘Mallu’. We were never offended by that remark, because we were infact more 'Tamil'. Once we relocated to Chennai, we found it stressful to go about celebrating Diwali with the same amount of vigour, the main road travelled right by our door step and we did not find enough space and company to fire our more sophisticated crackers. Slowly we weaned away from active participation and resorted to just being the audience. Then came a phase when I couldn’t  take the noise anymore, to purposely staying away in solidarity with the child workers employed in the Industry. The Diwali delicacies were always a hit, but were not painstakingly made at home anymore, we did not buy them either, boxes came from work and some delivered by contacts from work, in the end it became quite an effort to finish them.

Fast forward to Lubumbashi. We came here with no expectations, none at all, of the place or people. Lubumbashi has surpassed all our expectations though, in 6 months I feel so much at home already. I was planning to learn Swahili, switched to French when I learnt most people spoke the language, being the official language of DRC, well, French has a more universal appeal too. However when I went for my 1st Kitty party, I realised I had to learn Gujrati as well. Gujratis are to Africa as Malayalis are to the Middle East. Today am happy to see Indians, be it ‘Mallus’, ‘Tallus’, ‘Gujjus’, ‘Bongs’…anybody Indian, and I don't have to strain my eyes at all, I see them everywhere. In my estimate there are about 1000 families.

This year, we had no idea how we were going to usher in the festival till a week before Diwali. Then the invitations came pouring in. The 1st one from the Tamil Community here ( was there one??? ). We were told there were 10-12 families and many more bachelors. We were looking forward to meeting them. Then we heard, my husband’s work place was organizing a private party at an Indian Restaurant. Both parties at the same time, same day, one day after Diwali. How were we going to prioritise?? We heard the Indian Community was holding a carnival at the Temple Premises on Diwali Eve. This temple is a work-in-progress, and the 1st in Lubumbashi.

I couldn’t wait for the events to unfold, the same exuberance I had as a child came pounding in, I was like a cat on a hot tin roof. Have we ever heard of an event unfolding without hiccups??? Rain came showering furiously…Love the rains, but not when am going out, not when my childhood enthusiasm to be part of the Diwali festivities is back again, not when it's my first Diwali here. The Rain Gods were kind though…very kind. Rain stopped just short of the Diwali ‘Muhurtham’. Diyas on, should I call them diyas??? Glorified tea candles more like it, scented too, apple, chocolate, citrus, lavender and cinnamon…a mish mash of perfumes. Never mind…the light emanating from them was more important. Dressed in a traditional maroon and mustard Salwar Kameez, and heavy jewellery, we reached the Temple premises for more display of colour and light, ending with a short burst of fireworks and dinner. Back home sleepy, but electrifyingly  fulfilled. The child in me was thoroughly rejoiced. 

The next day, Saturday, a working day, Diwali boom still in the air, we are pondering how to make an appearance at both parties…more, how to enjoy them both. The benevolent Rain Gods decide precipitation can't be held back, they decide to celebrate their own Diwali before our parties begin. Hailstones come crashing in around 5pm. For an hour or so, it was thunderous, and painful on the collecting hands. So beautiful!!! Truly thoughtful gesture, all was done before 7pm. No room for traditional wear today with water everywhere, we reached the venue to celebrate with the Tamil Community first, one of the first ones to arrive, not very unusual, carrying a very non-traditional tray of brownies. We barely say hello before we have to wave our goodbyes, to arrive at the Indian Restaurant to celebrate with my Husband’s colleagues and their families. Games had already begun, we were punished for arriving late, a request for song and dance was met with reluctance, hence substituted with a short speech from both of us. Those people who hadn’t seen the reclusive Premkumar family…there!!! A lavish Indian Spread, a game of Tambola, Bollywood Music and disorganized and ‘rhythmless’ dancing on the makeshift dance floor. Typically Indian and fun!!! It was time to shut shop at midnight, got back home sleepy yet again....but extremely happy.

The Finale was to take place in the evening on Sunday at the Temple Premises, again…starting with games and ending with dinner. After a hectic Friday and Saturday, most people probably thought the same…'we are not going to win anything’ and ‘let’s get ready for Monday’. We decided to skip the do after reaching the venue and finding a small count of people, for a simple Chinese dinner at the Greek Club. Nothing traditional about it. At the end of the Weekend…all I have is…

What a fabulous Diwali…happy, colourful and safe…just like I had wished all my Friends and Family.